Upon stepping out from the Peckham Rye train station in southeast London, a vibrant tapestry of life unfolds. The pulsating beat of Afrobeat fills the air as buses navigate the crowded Rye Lane, where shoppers explore an array of stores. Street art adorns the brick walls, the colourful strokes in a lively dance with grocery shops displaying fresh produce and stacks of plantain.
For years, Peckham has been a magnet for Nigerians seeking a new life abroad, earning it the moniker “Little Lagos.”
Filmmaker Adeyemi Michael, a Lagos-born but Peckham-raised individual, describes, “There’s an essence here.” Recollections of skating along Peckham Rye for errands as a child are vivid for Michael, with the Nigerian community enveloping him in warmth. “The main street echoed my childhood as a Nigerian in South London,” he reminisces.
Travelling extensively nowadays, Michael comments, “When I return, I’m greeted by the spirit of this locale and its diverse inhabitants, many being immigrants from varied backgrounds.”
Highlighting this unique bond between London and the Nigerian diaspora is the exhibition, “Lagos, Peckham, Repeat: Pilgrimage to the Lakes.”
An Artistic Pilgrimage
Hosted at the South London Gallery, the showcase includes various art forms, from sculptures and installations to photographs and films. Within, visitors are transported to Nigeria with the ambient sounds of its bustling streets, a creation of Emeka Ogboh, one of the 13 artists with Nigerian roots participating in the show.
Folakunle Oshun, the co-curator and founder of the Lagos Biennial, delved deep into Peckham and its Nigerian populace over eight months. He aimed to trace the evolution of “Little Lagos” since Nigeria’s break from British colonial rule in 1960.
Migration stories, according to Oshun, are universal. “Communities form around shared values and traditions, and economics too plays a role,” he reflects. The exhibition fills him with pride, celebrating the contributions and stories of migrants in the UK.
Margot Heller, at the helm of the South London Gallery, adds that Peckham has evolved as a home away from home for many Nigerians in the UK.
Stories of Power and Identity
Michael’s mother stars in his short film “Entitled,” a poignant part of the exhibition. In the film, she confidently rides a horse through Peckham Rye in traditional Nigerian attire. The film was Michael’s response to the challenges his mother faced as an immigrant in the UK.
“I aimed to equate her strength to historical figures of power while celebrating our Yoruba heritage,” he states.
All pieces in the showcase carry profound personal significance for their creators. For instance, artist Temitayo Ogunbiyi’s interactive sculpture is shaped by the Lagos-London flight route and Nigerian flora.
Yinka Shonibare, in his work “Diary of a Victorian Dandy” from 1998, offers insights into his experiences as a Black man with a disability.
To Michael, each artwork resonates deeply with its Nigerian essence and personal narratives. “Peckham, once overlooked, now stands proud with its inhabitants celebrating their authentic selves,” he observes.
“Lagos, Peckham, Repeat: Pilgrimage to the Lakes” will be on display at the South London Gallery until October 29, 2023.
The tapestry of cultures, stories, and expressions in “Lagos, Peckham, Repeat: Pilgrimage to the Lakes” is a testament to the resilience and vibrancy of the Nigerian diaspora in London. As Peckham stands as a living embodiment of multiculturalism, this exhibition invites viewers to experience, understand, and celebrate the rich narratives of a community that has woven its essence into the heart of the city. Just as the threads of past and present intermingle, this showcase reminds us of the beauty of shared histories and the future they shape.
