Fashion is an ever-evolving industry, always ready to embrace change despite unforeseen circumstances. This was showcased during Gucci’s recent show at Milan Fashion Week. When Sabato de Sarno, Gucci’s new designer, had to shift venues due to inclement weather, he rose to the occasion with aplomb. Although initially set in Milan’s cultural epicentre, Brera, a rain forecast, moved the event to the well-acclaimed Gucci Hub.
Sabato de Sarno’s debut was highly anticipated, especially considering he was stepping into shoes previously filled by Alessandro Michele. Michele’s impact on Gucci is undeniable; the brand’s profits skyrocketed under his leadership, making it a fashion icon. However, de Sarno took this challenge head-on, presenting his collection to a star-studded audience that included Julia Roberts, Ryan Gosling, and Kendall Jenner, to name a few.
He titled his collection “Gucci Ancora,” a nod to the Italian words meaning ‘still’ and ‘again.’ Drawing from his two-decade experience with fashion powerhouses like Prada and Valentino, de Sarno seamlessly blended Gucci’s legacy with contemporary trends. He presented a diverse range, from tailored short suits and metallic skirts to pencil skirts paired with gray hoodies.
A notable change from Michele’s maximalist approach, de Sarno gave subtle nods to Gucci’s classic elements. The iconic red and green stripes were subtly woven into the design of a tailored coat, and the reinvented Bamboo and Jackie bags made recurrent appearances.
One of the standout features of the collection was the “Rosso Ancora” hue, a nod to the Gucci founder’s history at The Savoy Hotel in London. The shoe lineup was equally impressive, with platform loafers taking center stage.
De Sarno described his collection as “a story of objects,” emphasizing aesthetic appeal and daily usability. After taking the helm at Gucci in late July, he tormented the fashion world with teaser campaigns hinting at past aesthetics. However, his designs struck a different chord, leaning more towards timeless elegance than overt sensuality. This shift was evident in his tribute to the Marina jewelry collection and the inclusion of crystal designs inspired by Gucci’s historical archive.
Sabato de Sarno has successfully marked his territory in the illustrious world of Gucci. He seamlessly navigated through a last-minute venue change and presented a collection honouring Gucci’s rich past while introducing a fresh vision. It’s evident that with de Sarno at the helm, the future of Gucci promises a perfect blend of heritage and innovation.
