On the first day of Paris Fashion Week, Dior showcased their spring couture collection inspired by the pioneering Black performer Josephine Baker, who found fame in Paris in the 1920s.
Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri used velvets, silks, embroideries, sequins, and tiny silver studs to create the collection.
However, the event was not without controversy as Dior faced criticism for inviting a sanctioned Russian influencer, and Schiaparelli faced backlash for glamorizing trophy hunting with a fake lion’s head.
Inside the Rodin Museum gardens, giant images by African American artist Mickalene Thomas of Baker and other female Black American icons lined the room, highlighting Baker’s extraordinary life as a member of the French Resistance, civil rights activist, humanist, dancer, and performer.
Guests eagerly awaited the show.
According to Dior, the collection was inspired by the “cozy, intimate dressing room” that precedes Josephine Baker’s stage performances.
The collection featured a variety of coats, including a take on bathrobe styles, in luxurious materials such as silk velvet and satin.
While the designs were undeniably beautiful, they were also somewhat restrained. One ensemble featured a knit-like mesh made of silk and steel beads, evoking a vintage style and a sense of quiet female power.
The collection also featured a steel beaded mesh skirt trimmed with sparkling fringe, evoking Baker’s heyday. However, overall the collection remained very Parisian, rather than delving into the deeper social and political issues Baker fought against throughout her life.
While the collection may not have delved deeply into the social and political issues faced by Josephine Baker and other Black individuals, it was notable that a significant number of models of colour were featured in the show.
Over half of the 60 looks were presented by models of colour, which is noteworthy given the ongoing criticism that the luxury industry and Paris Fashion Week, particularly, have faced for being white-centric.
Maisie Williams Brings Dior’s Sister to Life
Game of Thrones star Maisie Williams looked the part as she posed in front of images of iconic Black women such as Eartha Kitt, Nina Simone and Josephine Baker, wearing a pixie hairstyle and a Dior bustier while photographers captured the moment.
Williams expressed her excitement to be attending the show, as she recently portrayed Dior’s sister, Catherine Dior, in the upcoming Apple TV drama series “The New Look,” which focuses on the rivalry between the couturier and Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel.
Williams, known for her portrayal of the fierce Arya Stark, told the Associated Press that she finds the Dior woman to be an inspiration and that the clothes are powerful for women. She said, “The women that I love to play have qualities that align.”
Controversy Surrounds Dior’s Invitation to Sanctioned Russian Influencer
Dior faced criticism online for extending an invitation to a Paris couture show to Russian TV presenter Yana Rudkovskaya, who had been sanctioned by Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy on January 15th for being suspected of supporting Russian President Vladimir Putin and being a cultural figure and propagandist.
Other fashion houses reportedly refused to allow Rudkovskaya, who is an influencer, into their shows.
Rudkovskaya posted a photo of her Dior couture invitation on Instagram, leading some journalists to question how many other sanctioned Russians were attending Paris Haute Couture.
Schiaparelli Showcases Surreal Twists on Classical Styles
The first spring-summer couture show of the season, presented by Schiaparelli, showcased glamorous frivolity, exaggerated silhouettes, and unique twists on classical styles from the 1930s, the heyday of the house’s founder Elsa Schiaparelli.
The show, held in the Petit Palais, featured lashings of gold, intricate embellishments, and a star-studded front row.
Designer Daniel Roseberry skillfully reimagined classical styles, such as transforming a dark tuxedo with stiff oversize shoulders into a minimalist, space-age jumpsuit.
A bronze bustier was transformed into a giant oyster shell that rose up like a fan, obscuring the model’s face, and featured incredible pearl embellishments in organic, crystallized layers, showcasing the atelier’s expertise.
The collection also paid homage to the house’s founder with a giant lion’s head, modelled by Irina Shayk, as an inventive nod to Surrealism and a statement about the absurdity of the use of fur.
Kylie Jenner, who sat front row wearing a 3-D lion’s head and a gold snakeskin bag, faced criticism online for accusations of glamorizing animal cruelty.
Iris Van Herpen Takes a Digital Approach
Dutch fashion designer Iris Van Herpen strayed from the norm at Paris Fashion Week, opting for a digital presentation instead of a traditional runway show for her latest couture collection.
The brand’s film “Carte Blanche” was created in collaboration with French artist Julie Gautier and explores the concept of how female beauty can be used as a form of control.
The collection featured designs inspired by the ocean, including a red dress resembling a poisonous sea creature and a blue and silver gown that flowed like underwater currents.
Van Herpen, known for her avant-garde designs, has previously collaborated with artists such as Bjork.
Blossom Valli Girls
The Giambattista Valli couture collection celebrated spring with a mix of powder pinks, canary yellows, and pale turquoise.
The Italian designer presented a fresh take on classical wardrobe pieces, such as a regal ballgown with voluminous sleeves and train that was reimagined as a shoulderless, leg-revealing gown.
Another gown, with an exaggerated mermaid flare, was paired with a sporty crop top. Flowers were a recurring theme throughout the collection, with cuffs adorned in giant roses and embroidered tulle banding evoking Arabic dress.
The collection also featured giant pearl earrings reminiscent of Kosovar bridal traditions.
The latest couture collections from Dior, Schiaparelli, Iris Van Herpen, and Giambattista Valli have showcased a diverse range of styles and themes, from powerful and intimate dressing room styles to glamorous and floral-inspired looks.
Each designer has pushed the boundaries of traditional fashion and has presented a new perspective on how couture can be presented.
The use of digital presentations and unconventional twists on classical styles have proven that the world of couture is constantly evolving and that fashion is truly an art form that never stops innovating.
