The personal collection of André Leon Talley, the iconic Vogue magazine editor, writer, and fashion trailblazer, has far exceeded expectations at Christie’s auction.
The 64 lots of the white-glove sale brought in a total of nearly $1.4 million (including fees), surpassing the high end of pre-sale estimates of $445,900.
The sale’s profits will benefit the Abyssinian Baptist Church in Harlem and the Sinai Missionary Baptist Church in Durham, North Carolina.
The enthusiastic crowd of Talley fans erupted in applause after every lot that exceeded expectations, starting with the first lot, a set of three straw boater hats from Lock & Co. Hatters, which sold for $4,800 (including fees), far higher than the $800 high estimate.
Portraits of Talley throughout the years also played a significant role in the sale, with Colin Douglas Gray’s 2020 image of Talley in a straw boater selling for $5,205 (including fees), more than ten times its high estimate of $500.
Bill Cunningham’s black-and-white photograph of Diana Vreeland and André Leon Talley from 1974 sold for $10,500 (including fees), surpassing its $600 high estimate, and Horst P. Horst’s 1979 photograph of Diana Vreeland sold for $26,000 (including fees), well above its pre-sale estimate of $2,000 to $3,000.
Andy Warhol’s portrait of Diana Vreeland, “Diana Vreeland Rampant (after Jacques Louis David, Napoleon at St. Bernard),” sold for $75,000 (including fees), outpacing its high estimate of $50,000.
Three undated Yves Saint Laurent collages, “Profiles,” inscribed to Talley and signed by Yves, sold for $16,000 (including fees), double its high estimate of $8,000.
Personalized Louis Vuitton suitcases from around 1990 sold for $75,000 (including fees) to an online bidder, far above the $4,000 high estimate, and limited-edition Stephen Sprouse briefcases from Louis Vuitton, gifted to Talley by Marc Jacobs, sold for $55,000 (including fees), more than nine times its $6,000 high estimate.
The only oil-on-canvas work in the auction, Kimberly Cole Moore’s “Portrait of André Leon Talley” (2020), sold for $12,000 (including fees) against a pre-sale estimate of $5,000 to $7,000.
A gold embroidered bullfighter bolero by Jean Paul Gaultier from 1991 sold for $8,500 (including fees), surpassing its estimate of $3,000 to $5,000, and a fantastic gold brocade caftan by Dapper Dan, worn by Talley at Carolina Herrera’s New York Fashion Week show in 2020, sold for $13,000 (including fees), well above its $2,000 high estimate.
A blue silk satin kimono designed by Tom Ford for Gucci, gifted to Talley by Ford and a personal note, sold for $11,000 (including fees) to another online bidder.
The 24-by-24-inch photograph by Jonathan Becker, “André Leon Talley, Chevalier de l’ordre des arts et des lettres, on the Pont Alexandre II, Paris” (2013), fetched $20,000 (including fees), more than 11 times its $1,800 high estimate and was the cover for Talley’s 2020 memoir, “The Chiffon Trenches.”
The auction of André Leon Talley’s collection was a testament to his impact on the fashion industry and his legacy as a writer and tastemaker.
Talley’s career spanned decades, and he was known for his larger-than-life personality, flamboyant sense of style, and his role as a mentor to many aspiring fashion professionals.
The high prices commanded by the lots in the auction are a reflection of the high demand for items associated with Talley and his life.
The fact that the sale exceeded expectations is a testament to the deep admiration and respect that Talley earned during his lifetime.
The proceeds from the auction will benefit two important causes, the Abyssinian Baptist Church in Harlem and the Sinai Missionary Baptist Church in Durham, North Carolina.
These churches will be the beneficiaries of Talley’s legacy, which will continue to inspire future generations of fashion lovers and tastemakers.
The auction of André Leon Talley’s collection was a fitting tribute to his life and work and a celebration of his influence on the fashion industry.