At London’s Somerset House, a photograph captures attention—a poised Black woman in elegant attire juxtaposed against the graffiti, “KEEP BRITAIN WHITE.” This photo, captured by Jamaican-born photographer Neil Kenlock, is just a glimpse into “The Missing Thread, Untold Stories of Black Fashion,” an exhibition uncovering the overshadowed contributions of Black British voices to the fashion industry from the 1970s to the present.
Andrew Ibi, one of the exhibition’s curators, reflects on the resilience demonstrated by the woman in Kenlock’s photo, stating, “In the face of this, people would expect her to be wearing riot clothes, but she looks immaculate: Her hair’s done, she has jewelry on… It’s like a uniform of resilience.” The journey of the exhibition itself echoes this resilience. Curated by the trio from Black Orientated Legacy Development Agency (BOLD)—Ibi, Jason Jules, and Harris Elliot—it took nearly three years to bring the stories to light. As Jules mentions, “This goes way beyond fashion. Fashion is the Trojan horse.”
While there’s no denying the growing recognition of Black designers and creatives recently—such as Law Roach and Chioma Nnadi—the exhibition stresses that many stories remain untold. The disparities faced by Black designers, as shared by Ibi, and the heartbreaking tale of Wayne Pinnock’s unfulfilled fashion career highlight this.
Moreover, the glaring absence of Black women from the narrative is evident. “We realized how much Black women were missing from the conversation,” says Jules, emphasizing the importance of representing Black women beyond mere photographs.
A poignant tale comes from Charlie Allen, recalling his experiences with racism in London during the 1990s. Such stories form the tapestry of the exhibition, which also celebrates the influences of Black culture, from nail art to the legacies of designers like Bruce Oldfield and Ozwald Boateng.
One name stands out: Joe Casely-Hayford. A pioneering Black British designer, his works remain iconic, yet his influence is often overlooked. The exhibition marks the first significant showcase from his archive, drawing emotions from many, including his son, Charlie.
“The Missing Thread” is more than an exhibition—it’s a testament to resilience, influence, and beauty in adversity. As co-curator Harris Elliot passionately articulates, “While I’d love people to leave with a little more of an understanding of what our experiences as Black designers have been, amidst all that, I would love people to see and acknowledge the beauty in what we do.”