The centennial celebration of Japanese whisky is steeped in the scent of cedar, as the Shizuoka Distillery leads a bold charge in the global spirits market. With the resonance of a hundred years since Suntory’s Yamazaki distillery first distilled whisky in Japan, this milestone is not just a look back but a toast to the future. The landscape of this storied drink has been transformed by over 100 licensed distilleries, doubling in number over the past decade and innovating with unique touches like the world’s sole wood-fueled whisky still. As these craft distilleries, small in size but large in ambition, join the fray, they honour a tradition that has seen Japanese whisky rise from obscurity to international acclaim.
Taiko Nakamura’s vision for Shizuoka Distillery was sparked by the global reach of a small Scottish distillery, igniting a passion for creating a Japanese whisky to be savoured worldwide. “So I thought it would be fun to make my whisky and then have people from all over the world enjoy it,” Nakamura reflects, symbolizing the global aspirations of Japan’s craft whisky movement. This surge in craft distilling follows a dramatic trajectory in the industry, marked by a boom that outpaced supply due to soaring demand for award-winning Japanese single malts around 2008, culminating in a bust with sky-high prices by 2015.
Amidst this backdrop, Suntory, the vanguard of Japanese whisky, invests significantly in distillery upgrades and expresses a collaborative spirit. Chief blender Shinji Fukuyo articulates a welcoming stance towards the burgeoning craft scene: “As long as it contributes to maintaining and improving the quality of Japanese whisky as a whole.” This statement embodies the shared commitment to excellence that has defined Japanese whisky.
As foreign investment like Diageo’s stake in Komasa Kanosuke Distillery and IJW Whiskey Company’s expansion into Hokkaido signals confidence in the market, concerns arise regarding the potential dilution of quality. Casey Wahl of Kamui Whisky voices a prevalent anxiety: “That’s a real fear in the industry,” highlighting the delicate balance between innovation and tradition. Nakamura of Shizuoka Distillery responds to this by emphasizing a dedication to craft: “I believe we need to put all our effort into making Japanese whisky that lives up to the quality of the Japanese whiskies made by our predecessors.”
As the echo of the centenary celebrations fades, the future of Japanese whisky lies in the hands of these innovative craft distillers who balance reverence for tradition with modern creativity. The fire beneath their stills is not just fueled by cedar but by a relentless pursuit of excellence and a shared dream to pour Japan’s spirit into the glasses of whisky lovers across the globe. It’s a testament to a hundred-year journey that has seen Japan’s whisky evolve from an underdog to a world-class contender, and the next hundred years promise a legacy flavoured with ambition, craft, and an enduring commitment to quality.