Paris Men’s Fashion Week is always an anticipated event, but this year brought unexpected surprises and poignant goodbyes. The Spring-Summer 2025 menswear collections showcased in the City of Light were filled with bold political statements, surprise debuts, and a memorable farewell. Amid the buzz of the upcoming Summer Olympics and the backdrop of political tension, designers used their platforms to make statements beyond fashion.
Rick Owens’ Call for Unity
American designer Rick Owens set the tone with his show at the Palais de Tokyo. His nearly all-white collection, named “White Satin Army of Love,” blended biblical references with Art Deco, and featured a diverse cast of models. Owens made a powerful statement about solidarity. In his show notes, he wrote, “Expressing our individuality is great but sometimes expressing our unity and reliance on each other is a good thing to remember too… especially in the face of the peak intolerance we are experiencing in the world right now.” His show was a call for togetherness, urging the audience to stand united.
A$AP Rocky’s Surprising Debut
Rapper A$AP Rocky made a dramatic entrance into the fashion world with his Paris Fashion Week debut for his label AWGE. Hosting a secret show titled “American Sabotage” at the historic Hôtel de Maisons, Rocky set a dystopian stage. The presentation featured models with heads covered by American eagle flags, and provocative slogans like “Don’t be Dumb.” Reflecting on his vision, Rocky explained, “We’re wrecking boundaries and making statements through every piece, reflecting the spirit and resilience of our communities. This is fashion with purpose, where art meets activism.” His debut was more than a fashion show; it was a powerful message.
Pharrell’s Military Influences
Pharrell Williams continued to impress with his fourth collection for Louis Vuitton, drawing on military inspirations. Combining camouflage with the brand’s signature checkerboard pattern in a style he dubbed “damoflage,” Pharrell’s show highlighted themes of travel and diplomacy. The collection, showcased at UNESCO headquarters, was a nod to international collaboration and dialogue, incorporating the creative collective Air Afrique’s graphics. Pharrell’s show was a masterclass in blending fashion with cultural and political undertones.
Exploring Subcultures and Gender Norms
Other designers at Paris Men’s Fashion Week embraced subculture styles and challenged traditional gender norms. From techno couture by German magazine 032C to tartan and heavy metal inspirations by Junya Watanabe, the runways were a canvas for creativity. Jeanne Friot’s queer fashion label stood out with its use of deadstock materials and gender-fluid designs. “For me, punk today means… doing things locally, responsibly… just as much as addressing gender norms,” Friot shared. The show reflected a growing trend toward inclusivity and sustainability in fashion.
Dries Van Noten’s Emotional Farewell
The week concluded with a heartfelt farewell from Belgian designer Dries Van Noten, who presented his final collection after 38 years. The show, set against a silver foil runway, was a celebration of Van Noten’s illustrious career. The audience was moved as Donna Summer’s “I Feel Love” played, signaling a joyous end. Van Noten’s final bow was a fitting tribute to a career that has left a lasting impact on the fashion industry.
A Week of Statements and Style
Paris Men’s Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2025 was more than just a showcase of the latest trends. It was a platform for designers to express their views on unity, activism, and inclusivity. From A$AP Rocky’s bold debut to Dries Van Noten’s nostalgic farewell, the week was filled with unforgettable moments. As Paris prepares for the Summer Olympics, the city continues to be a stage for creativity and change.
