The celebrated tailors of Savile Row in London, renowned for their exquisite suits, have been bustling with activity as they create the striking red and gold uniforms for Britain’s first coronation in seven decades, introducing the emblems of the soon-to-be King Charles.
Their showrooms are also experiencing heightened activity as customers collect these uniforms and suits for individuals who will be attending this Saturday’s opulent ceremonial event.
For over 150 years, Savile Row tailors have served royalty and their progeny, and their profession receives a special lift from long-time patron Charles, who not only cherishes the countryside but also supports the farmers, weavers, and mills that manufacture a significant portion of their fabric.
Jules Walker, the military tailor at Gieves & Hawkes, who will be present from 4 a.m. on the coronation day for any final alterations, expressed his pride, “It’s an immense privilege. We’re all putting in a lot of effort. There’s plenty to accomplish. On the day itself, the spectacle will be splendid. We will all take pride in our work. It’s a momentous event that will be looked back upon for many years to come.”
Past royal occasions, like last year’s Platinum Jubilee, which marked Queen Elizabeth’s 70-year reign, or Prince Harry’s 2018 marriage to his American wife Meghan, have heightened interest in Savile Row’s craftsmanship. This street’s archives hold records of illustrious clients such as Winston Churchill, Charles Dickens, and Cary Grant.
Troops garbed in vibrant red wool uniforms accentuated with intricate gold braids are a fundamental component of British pageantry, witnessed on the capital’s streets during last year’s jubilee celebration and the queen’s extensive funeral procession in September.
With the shift in monarchy, the insignia needs to be updated, incorporating Charles’ Tudor crown, buttons, and royal cypher—or monogram—onto the ceremonial uniforms displayed during the 6,000-strong military parade.
William Skinner of the Dege & Skinner tailoring house noted that these uniforms are designed to last for many years. The emphasis on repair and rejuvenation of the outfits, instead of crafting new ones, aligns with Charles’ renowned respect for the environment.
Prestigious establishments on the street, including Gieves, Henry Poole, Dege & Skinner, Anderson & Sheppard and others, all possess royal warrants, indicating their service to the royal family.
As a consequence, they have been gradually enhancing their environmental footprint, presenting energy bills and invoices to demonstrate their reduced usage of packaging or lighting.
‘SLOW FASHION’
Henry Poole, the creator of the dinner jacket or tuxedo, has held a British royal warrant since the 1860s when it served Queen Victoria. Simon Cundey, the latest family member to run the business, stated that customers globally are attracted by the royal warrant.
“Sustainability has always been a significant aspect of what Savile Row represents,” he commented.
King Charles, frequently photographed in his decades-old double-breasted suits, has been a longstanding advocate of the ‘slowest fashion’ trend that has become more popular recently.
In a 2020 British Vogue interview, he said, “I’m one of those people who despise discarding anything. Therefore, I prefer to keep them in good condition, even if it means mending them, rather than disposing of them.”
Anda Rowland, vice chairman of King Charles’ tailor, Anderson & Sheppard, mentioned that Charles has created a “kind of halo effect” for British menswear, with global television crews inquiring about his sustainable fashion approach.
“It checks many boxes in today’s world, despite its deep-rooted tradition,” she noted. “And we still operate and train in the same manner as when we were established in 1906.”
The upcoming coronation of King Charles not only highlights the exceptional skills of Savile Row’s tailors but also emphasizes their commitment to sustainability and the environment, in line with the future monarch’s principles. This event is set to boost the industry and further solidify Savile Row’s status as a global destination for top-tier, sustainable tailoring.
The royal event also brings into the spotlight the “slow fashion” movement, an approach that emphasizes quality, longevity, and environmental sustainability over mass production. King Charles, a long-time advocate of this movement, provides an influential endorsement of the cause. His philosophy towards clothing, focusing on maintenance and longevity rather than constant replacement, is a message that resonates with an increasing number of people worldwide, further establishing the relevance of Savile Row’s traditional craft in the modern era.
In a world that’s increasingly conscious about sustainability, the Savile Row tailors are ensuring their methods, techniques, and businesses align with this consciousness while continuing to serve their high-profile clientele, including the British royal family. The upcoming coronation is a testament to their unwavering commitment to their craft and sustainability, and it’s expected to leave a lasting impact on the industry and its future direction.
