London Fashion Week was opened to the backdrop of a sweltering UK heatwave on Friday, only to end amidst heavy showers and storms on Tuesday. Across the five days, the excitement for high-profile showcases like Burberry, JW Anderson, Erdem, and Simone Rocha contrasted with the notable absence of trending brands like Dilara Findikoglu, Halpern, Nensi Dojaka, and S.S. Daley — all of whom opted out just weeks prior.
The week she commenced with a potential new tradition akin to the Met Gala, aimed at supporting London’s performing arts venues, initiated by Anna Wintour. Vogue World’s sparkling maroon carpet added a splash of celebrity with attendees like Sienna Miller, who flaunted her pregnancy glow in Schiaparelli couture, Jodie Turner-Smith, Princess Eugenie, and Kate Winslet.
Prominent personalities such as Cole Sprouse, Suki Waterhouse, Charli XCX, Ncuti Gatwa, and Alexa Chung were seen at JW Anderson’s Saturday show at the Roundhouse, North London. Meanwhile, the Burberry show at Highbury Fields in east London boasted the presence of Mo Farah, Damon Albarn, Rachel Weiss, Jodie Comer, and Kylie Minogue.
However, some avant-garde collections and marketing choices thrust London Fashion Week into broader cultural discussions. A significant uproar was caused by Burberry’s recent renaming of Bond Street station to “Burberry Street”, and Nigerian designer Mowalola stirred debate with her use of the Saudi Arabian flag on her runway attire.
Below, explore the standout trends from this season’s London displays:
Artistic Apparel
Brands redefined ‘wearable art’ with out-of-the-box runway designs that leaned more sculptural than traditional. For instance, HARRI, the mastermind behind the inflatable attire donned by Sam Smith earlier this year, showcased expansive balloon pants paired with a complementary dress. JW Anderson unveiled clothing crafted entirely from clay, and KWK by Kwok added a twist to hoop skirts, resulting in oversized, futuristic floral designs.
Footwear Fancies
The spotlight was equally on footwear this season. Simone Rocha surprised attendees with a Crocs collaboration, elevating the divisive footwear with platform heels and intricate adornments. This Crocs trend continued with lingerie designer Sinéad O’Dwyer presenting a sandal variant. Noteworthy footwear included HARRI’s toe shoe and Molly Goddard’s wrestling-inspired knee-high boots.
Cinematic Inspirations: David & David
A film air prevailed, with designers drawing from iconic directors David Cronenberg and David Lynch. 16Arlington, influenced by Lynch’s “Lost Highway,” showcased an atmospheric collection with city-inspired outfits. Mowalola’s provocative showcase leaned into Cronenberg’s 1996 film “Crash,” with makeup mirroring the movie’s intense visuals.
Historical Gowns
Travelling back in time, Richard Quinn presented a Rococo-inspired mini, while Molly Goddard’s pieces spanned the 20th century, drawing from various decades. Matty Bovan delved into an ’80s vibe with flamboyant outfits and eye-catching details.
Sheer Brilliance
Sheer fabrics dominated runways from Simone Rocha to Susan Fang. These transparent designs added an ethereal touch, like Simone Rocha’s dusky tulle filled with roses or Susan Fang’s unique “air-weave smocking.”
Beaded Wonders
Beading shone bright this season. From subtle touches on Erdem’s dresses to grand headpieces at Simone Rocha, beads made a statement. Inspired by DNA, Susan Fang’s standout piece beautifully showcased intricate handcrafting.
Fashion enthusiasts eagerly await how these trends translate into everyday wear in the upcoming months.
The Spring-Summer 2024 season at London Fashion Week wasn’t just about presenting clothing; it was a melange of art, history, and cultural conversation. Designers pushed boundaries, often blurring the lines between the past and future, tradition and rebellion. As these styles transition from the runway to the streets, the world is keen to embrace the fashion language of 2024, which is unapologetically bold and uniquely imaginative.
