As celebrities such as actor Jacob Elordi and Italian vocalist Elodie graced the Valentino show, their arrival marked the opening of Milan Fashion Week’s menswear previews amid the cheers of enthusiastic fans.
Despite the absence of some familiar names in the Milan menswear calendar, the re-emergence of Valentino’s menswear this season ignited the week with high spirits. American entertainer d4vd orchestrated a live performance from the heart of the stage, filling Milan’s state university’s pillared courtyard with resonating tunes.
While pausing their usual academic activities, university students observed the event from underneath the colonnade. Fashion enthusiasts used show notes as makeshift sun shields under the blazing sun, many wishing they hadn’t opted for black attire.
The event served as a sentimental reunion for the French-owned Italian label. Valentino Garavani, the fashion house founder, held his debut menswear runway show in Italy’s fashion hub in 1985 and frequently showcased menswear in Milan until his retirement in 2008.
Key takeaways from mainly menswear previews for the upcoming spring and summer seasons include:
Valentino Enriches Designs With Floral Embellishments
Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino’s creative director, has grounded next summer’s collection in traditional tailoring with a feminine touch, demonstrated through mellow hues and fluid forms. However, it was the floral accents that genuinely elevated the group.
Monochrome white suits form the foundational attire comprising a jacket, shirt, tie, and thigh-exposing Bermuda shorts. Black footwear, socks, and accessories maintain the metropolitan vibe.
In some instances, shorts were reimagined as a skirt. Tailored bottoms — be it shorts, pants, or skirts — could be matched with a shirt, square-cut top, or a soft V-neck with contrasting ties fluttering in the welcoming breeze.
The introduction of floral elements enhanced the outfits, with everlasting boutonnieres infusing life into garments through sequins, appliques, embroidery, and unique graphic prints. From a monochrome palette of white and then black, a burst of fuchsia and pink, red, and royal blue was introduced, occasionally contrasted with hints of gray.
The fashion brand donated a scholarship to the university for the subsequent academic year. It also revealed its collaboration with a company to recycle, resell, or repurpose runway materials and its initiative to plant trees in Milan’s Public Gardens, adjacent to Valentino’s Milan offices.
DSquared2 Blend Preppy With Provocative
The Canadian Caten twins, Dean and Dan, behind the DSquared2 brand, boldly merged 1980s adolescent naivety with an erotic twist to craft their edgy vision.
The designers integrated classic scholarly themes, such as argyle knits, sports jerseys, and basketball shorts, and amplified them with crystals, sequins, and lace, suitable for any gender.
Summer was epitomized by the skin-exposing ultra-mini skirts and shorts, with cropped and occasionally torn T-shirts.
The collection’s daring objectives were summed up in its cast: Italian adult film star and director Rocco Siffredi teased the photographers, revealing an explicit image of his briefs underneath his jeans. Actress and model Julia Fox modelled a white slip dress with a charming ruffle hem alongside a large shell necklace. A lobster pin secured a tight black dress accentuating Spanish supermodel Esther Canada’s legs and torso.
Dean Caten jovially proclaimed post-show, “When you find hotness on your menu, you are at DSquared.”
PLein’s Billionaire Brand Caters From Jetsetter to Boardroom
“People are enjoying themselves in the post-pandemic world more than before,” German designer Philipp Plein noted.
Observing from his global three-brand group boasting 100 outlets, Plein revealed a slight drop in sales in May. His takeaway: “People are prioritizing travel and leisure over clothing.”
Plein is riding the wave of a trend toward experiential luxury. He hosted an Oscar party at the 2023 Cannes Film Festival and a series of exclusive fashion events, demonstrating that luxury customers primarily desire in-person experiences.
Billionaire Plein’s high-end menswear line introduced its newest collection during Milan Fashion Week. The exhibition included innovative additions like a 24-hour jersey suit, enabling the globetrotting man to step off an overnight flight appearing refreshed and ready for a meeting in a comfortable double-face silhouette. Plein also featured two denim styles, emphasizing a trend toward relaxed comfort.
“They are not treated, washed, or destroyed,’’ Plein mentioned, adding that his ultra-luxury clientele prefers classic attire with a unique twist.
Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week has set the sartorial tone for the upcoming seasons and challenged conventional norms and expectations. From Valentino’s feminine accents in menswear to DSquared2’s daring merger of innocence and eroticism, the brands are pushing the boundaries of traditional masculinity. As the fashion industry recalibrates in the post-pandemic world, it’s apparent that creativity, sustainability, and audacity are the new cornerstones of design.
