On the towering granite face of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, climbers push their limits on one of the world’s most daunting routes. Austrian climber Babsi Zangerl made history last month by completing a “flash” ascent of the Freerider route, which left the climbing community in awe.
Defying the Odds: Zangerl’s Historic Flash
Flashing a route means climbing it from start to finish on the first attempt without falling—a feat never before accomplished on El Capitan. Zangerl’s climb was nothing short of perfection. Reflecting on her success, she admitted to CNN Sport, “It was hard to believe… I could have fallen so many times on that climb.”
Freerider is notorious for its challenging pitches, including the Monster Offwidth, a 60-meter crack that had previously deterred Zangerl. Her approach was humble: “We just tried to flash and see how far we can get. The expectations were low.” Yet, she precisely tackled each section, navigating even the Boulder Problem, the route’s most treacherous section, with razor-sharp focus.
Mental Strength in the Face of Pressure
Unlike traditional ascents, flashing demands immense mental resilience. “It’s easier to be focused while climbing,” Zangerl explained, “but as soon as I stopped climbing… I had more pressure.” The ascent spanned four days, with Zangerl camping on the wall alongside her boyfriend and climbing partner, Jacopo Larcher.
While Larcher also attempted to flash the route, a fall on the Boulder Problem dashed his hopes. Despite his disappointment, Larcher remained supportive. “He believed in me… and this helped a lot,” Zangerl said.
A Combination of Skill, Trust, and Luck
Zangerl attributes her success to skill, trust in her partner, and good fortune. Clear skies and cool conditions provided ideal climbing weather, while advice from Alex Honnold, who famously climbed Freerider without ropes in Free Solo, proved invaluable. Honnold’s tip on resting during the Monster Offwidth worked perfectly for Zangerl.
“I trust him [Larcher] 100%. We work perfectly together,” she added, highlighting their partnership’s critical role.
A Climbing Legacy in the Making
Zangerl’s flash ascent of Freerider is one of her most celebrated achievements. Back in Austria, she discovered her accomplishment had become headline news. “I topped out that route, and the day after, it was already on television,” she said.
Now, Zangerl is back to her day job as a radiographer, but her love for climbing remains strong. She plans to return to Yosemite next year and dreams of creating a new route. “In long-term goals, maybe putting up our route somewhere would be cool,” she said.
Babsi Zangerl’s flawless ascent of El Capitan’s Freerider route redefines what’s possible in the climbing world. Her skill, determination, and partnership with Jacopo Larcher showcase the human spirit at its finest. Whether scaling new heights or inspiring climbers worldwide, Zangerl’s story is one of perseverance and triumph.